Mitchell’s First Outlet is Still an Original

Where it all began: The original Cameron Mitchell restaurant was Cameron’s in Linworth.

Now called Cameron’s American Bistro, it remains unique in the Mitchell organization. Unlike Columbus Fish Market or Cap City Diner, it hasn’t been cloned into multiple units.

Chief Erik Goldstrom appears to have a free hand in designing the menu. A few standouts on the new one were derived from recent trips to Las Vegas, Chesapeake Bay and New Orleans.

Crab cake, rich by nature, gets a refreshing contrast from a slaw of watermelon, radish and jicama, as well as a bit of heat from sauces seasoned by wasabi and chili ($9.95).

And while a dry-rubbed pork loin ($16.95) gets a lot of attention from its upscale hash browns and a fine sauce made with real veal stock, cream and chipotle butter, the most kitchen-intensive new dish is vegetarian.

The bistro plate ($12.50) is an appetizing stack of goodies using breaded and deep-fried slices of eggplant to sandwich a mix of ricotta and goat cheese and spinach sautéed in garlic butter. On the side is broccolini dosed with a refreshing compote of oven-roasted tomatoes, onion, sweet peppers and artichokes.